Stain or paint the round piece of wood, as desired. Position the Lazy Susan hardware on the bottom of the wood and secure in place with one ¾” screw through the center.
Secure the remaining pipe caps to the wood with a ¾” screw and a washer, approximately 1” from the center. This will make the two sections of pipe 2” apart. Apply a bead of adhesive around the outside of the “stand” portion of the pipe assemblies, then insert the pipe into the caps.
This jewelry stand can also be made with PVC pipe which is a little less expensive and it can also be spray painted any color. The stands also make a great gift!
These art frames are not traditional in any way, yet they are super-easy to make! These frames are made with a plywood base, which has been stained, then finished off with a piece of Plexiglas secured to the base with finish washers and screws.
Finish washers are cupped washers that add a decorative or “finished” look to screws that will be exposed. They usually come in a chrome finish and can easily be spray painted to suit the project.
Materials to make one frame to hold an 8×10 photo:
1/2” plywood cut to 13” x 16”
Sander with 150 & 220 grit sandpaper
Plexiglas cut to 11” x 14” (I bought mine pre-cut in the framing department of my local hobby store)
Drill with 1/8” drill bit
The plywood can be purchased in 2’ x 2’ or 2’ x 4’ sheets. Most home improvement stores will cut them to size for you at no or minimal cost.
Start by sanding thoroughly sanding the plywood using 150 grit sand paper followed by 220 grit sandpaper. Stain or paint the plywood as desired. I used a stencil and a glue-resist technique on the plywood piece, then stained it using a dark brown stain. I finished with two coats of a polyurethane sealer.
Next, position the Plexiglas sheet on the plywood piece with a 1” border around all sides. Use a drill with a 1/8” drill bit to drill holes in each corner of the Plexiglas approximately 1/2” in from each end. When drilling holes in Plexiglas, use very gentle pressure or the Plexiglas will crack. Do not drill all the way through the plywood base.
Thread a finish washer over the end of each screw, then carefully drive the screws through the holes in the Plexiglas into the plywood. Do not overtighten the screws because this will also crack the Plexiglas.
Insert the photo or artwork desired prior to securing all of the screws. Install a sawtooth hanger on the back of the plywood base.
The plywood base of these frames can be stained or painted to match any décor. The size is easily customizable as well…
Plexiglas can be purchased in large sheets at any home improvement store then cut to the size desired using a straight edge and a utility knife. A great idea would be to create a really large frame then add photos in a collage! With the holidays coming up, these frames will make great gifts and several can be made inexpensively!
Sometimes people have great ideas on how to pretty up everyday things around the house using our hardware and this one from Designs by Studio C is a great example! Personalize your slow cooker with something that’s more your style than the little plastic handle!
Like most people, I am a huge fan of using a slow cooker to make meals. It doesn’t get any easier – put the food in and turn it on, and a few hours later dinner is served. It all came to a halt when the handle on the lid of my slow cooker broke. I didn’t want to spend the money on a new lid plus I wasn’t really sure where I would find a new lid! I found that a drawer knob works perfectly as a new handle on the lid!
I started by removing the pieces of the old handle on the lid. The handle was held in place with a screw and a rubber washer.
I dug through my stash to find a knob
that I thought would fit and look really, really cool (I’m into that!). I came upon a metal drawer knob with a matching escutcheon plate that I bought years ago. The next trick was finding a #8-32 machine screw in my stash that was short enough to make the knob and plate fit snugly against the lid.
I found a ¾” #8-32 machine screw that fit into the end of the knob perfectly. I threaded the screw through the rubber washer that was originally on the lid, then threaded the escutcheon plate and knob on the machine screw. I made sure the screw was snug but not too tight so that it interfered with the natural expansion and contraction of the heat of the lid.
I love the way it looks but the only bad thing is that the knob gets a little hot. To me, that is a small sacrifice compared to trying to find a new lid! Any style of drawer knob can be used – a porcelain knob may also work and may get less hot, but I would definitely avoid a plastic knob as it may melt!
With all of the awesome advances in technology, most everyone has and uses a tablet (my kids do!)… They are handy for all sorts of things so wouldn’t it be nice to make a tablet stand to keep it upright and out of the way while you’re using it? (Hint- it helps with neck strain!) This stand is really easy to make and I’ve made two, customizing each of them in a different way!
Scrap 1×12 board at 12”
Scrap ¾” square dowel rod at 12”
Stain and sealer or primer and paint
Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
Using the piece for the angled stand rest, draw a diagonal line across the board from corner to corner. Cut along this line with the jigsaw. Once the pieces were cut, I stained them prior to assembling the stand.
Position the rest pieces on the back of the 1×12 base (the base leans on the angled portion of each piece), securing in place using glue and 2” brad nails through the front of the base into the rest pieces. (Use caution and keep fingers out of the way!)
Secure the square dowel to the front of the stand base approximately 1” up from the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Secure the decorative trim to the front of the square dowel using glue. If using the decorative wood appliqués, they can be secured using glue at the top edge of the 1×12 base.
Aren’t they great? This easy to make tablet stand can be customized in so many other ways – it can be decoupaged with photos, stenciled, painted or just left plain!
This is an easy project that would make a great gift, and several can be made over the course of a weekend! Until next time…
This clipboard photo or artwork hanger is really easy to make… It is the perfect piece to display a favorite quote, hang a scheduling calendar or just to display a little one’s latest masterpiece! The best part about it is that it can be customized to match the décor in the home, and several can be made in a day!
2″ x 2″ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
Clipboard clip (found at any craft store) with two 1/2″ screws
Drill bit matching the diameter of the jewelry box pull
Cut the piece of plywood to 12 ½” x 16 ½”. Most home improvement stores will do this for you. If you purchase a larger sheet of plywood, you can get more than one base for the clipboard hanger.
Stain or paint the plywood piece. I used a one-step stain and sealer in a dark brown using three coats.
Spray paint the screw heads to match the clip, if necessary. Position the clip in the center of the top end of the plywood, then drive the screws in the holes to secure the clip in place.
Mark the center of the very top edge of the plywood and drill a shallow pilot hole. Insert the screw portion of the jewelry box pull to hang the clipboard.
Add whatever you’d like to display to the clipboard photo or artwork hanger and enjoy!
D. Lawless Hardware carries an amazing selection of clear glass drawer knobs. If clear knobs don’t suit the “theme” of your project, why not consider painting them? There are so many new and fabulous products on the market for spray painting glass that I thought I would change the look of a few of these clear beauties for a shelf project!
Some of the new spray paints for glass include Frosted Glass, Sea Glass and Stained Glass spray paints by Krylon
, and Milk Glass spray paint by Valspar
. For this project, I’m using Stained Glass spray paint by Krylon in Cobalt Blue (I will be using the other spray paints in future projects!).
The Stained Glass spray paint comes in a wide variety of colors and the thing I liked most about the Cobalt Blue is that the color is so vivid when the paint dries! It is virtually impossible to mess it up, too!
To begin, wash the glass knobs
with mild dishwashing liquid and dry them thoroughly. This makes sure the glass is free of oils from hands as well as any other dirt, dust and debris!
Once the knobs are dry, spray a light coat of the paint on all areas of the knobs. Generally, only one coat is needed but additional coats can be added to deepen the color a bit. (Make sure to pay attention to the instructions on the can for recoat times!) The paint may look a little opaque when it is wet but will become clearer as it dries.
I like to let the paint cure at least overnight before adding it to my project. I used these knobs on a wall mounted shelf I built and I love how the color pops against the grey and white!
There are three main types of drawer slides including two different styles of bottom mount slides (one type mounts to each side of a drawer box and the other type mounts directly in the center bottom) and side mount slides.
In addition to the different types of drawer slides
, there are also many different styles – ball bearing, soft-close, slides with nylon wheels and the style I will use in this example.
I have a love/hate relationship with drawer slides. They can be really easy to install or they can be really difficult to install. This particular style, in my opinion, is the easiest to install by far! I came across them by accident and when I opened the box, I immediately expected them to be difficult but they weren’t! In fact, I still had a smile on my face when I finished installing them, ha ha!
One of the things I love about this style is the lever stops at the front of the cabinet-side slide. This keeps the drawer from being pulled out and also makes it easy to remove the drawer.
To install these slides, mount the drawer-side portion of the slides with the wheel at the back end of the drawer. The little framing piece (where the wheel is located) will be flush with the bottom and back end of the side of the drawer. Insert one screw in one of the holes in this area. Measure from the bottom of the slide itself to the bottom of the drawer and make sure the front portion of the slide (without the wheel) measures the same distance. Insert the remaining screws.
Now, align the cabinet-side pieces (the wheel will be at the front of the cabinet and will face up) with the stretcher that corresponds with the drawer. I located mine 3/4″ back from the front edge to allow for the inset drawer front. Make sure the side is level and insert the screws.
Slide the drawer in…That is all there is to it!
Here is a secret trick – if an oddball length of drawer slide is needed (my project needed slides that measured 11-1/2”), it is easy to cut the ends (opposite the wheels) off with a hacksaw! Super-easy, right?
There are several different types of corner braces such as inside corner braces
, flat corner braces and “L” braces. All of these types of braces serve the same purpose – to keep boards secured in a square or rectangle keeping them even or “square”.
I had the opportunity to use a set of inside corner braces when building a stool. There are screw holes in the two sides (which will allow the user to secure the braces to framing) as well as in the flat, triangular top (to secure a top or seat). The inside corner braces are really, really easy to install. For this demonstration, I am showing how I installed the inside corner braces on the stool frame then attached the top.
So, I have the stool frame assembled which includes legs and aprons. In order to use the inside corner braces, the aprons have to be directly perpendicular to each other on the inside of the legs. I used #6 x 3/4” wood screws and secured the inside corner braces in each corner where the aprons are joined to the legs.
Then, I positioned the frame on the underside of the seat and secured the seat to the frame with the #6 x 3/4″ screws through the flat, triangular top portion of the brace into the seat. Super easy!
The inside corner braces would be used on the framing and top of a table in the same manner. They could also be used on the top portion of a box or trunk (without securing them to the top or lid) which would help support the corners if the top or lid is heavy.
Uses for other braces such as flat corner braces and “L” braces can also be decorative. They can be spray painted and used on photo or mirror frames, or as a decorative element on chair or table legs. They can also give an “industrial” look to furniture projects!